Donnie & Crickette Tantoco cook up ‘Finopino’ food

I have just experienced a restaurant in a patch of paradise. I say “experienced”—rather than “dined in” —because it is located in a refreshing oasis where you can have soulful moments, far away from the urban polluted maze of the metropolis.

Here, the air is so fresh, you can hear the birds chirping amid lush greenery around a lake as you have lunch or dinner. Most of all, it serves well-loved Filipino cuisine—but with a twist—it is called “Finopino” food.

This is Rico’s at Nena’s Sanctuary in Sta. Rosa, just 35 minutes away from Makati via SLEX. Rico’s is the latest work of creative couple, Donnie and Crickette Tantoco. From retail mavens (Shopwise, Royal Duty Free Subic) to lifestyle dynamos (Joel’s Place), to hip restaurateurs (Rico’s Cafe)—is this the path that Donnie and Crickette are taking?

I daresay yes, because Rico’s is a combination of Donnie’s long-haired relaxed and open-minded vibe, plus Crickette’s chic and modern elegance.

Think Kare-kare and they have three kinds: vegetable, seafood, and beef kenchi bilog, sitting on a bed of Basmati rice. Their bagoong is not your usual—it is shrimp paste mousse.

Rico’s Ribeye Steak comes with three sauces: bistek sauce, Ilocos reduction sauce, and black peppercorn sauce.

Their salads? Finopino Caesar is prepared with unexpected alamang and coconut vinegar, finished with pandesal croutons and quezo de bola. Pako Salad is in sukang Iloco reduction plated with salted egg mousse.

Marina Coco Vino Medley is mixed seafood simmered in a flavorful broth with coconut wine sauce.

These were some of the dishes we enjoyed at Rico’s when Crickette invited the Seoul Sisters—we who thrive on K-dramas that make us laugh and love, and keep our inner child alive. We are also hungry for excellent food, over which we bond. Crickette and Monique Toda are our mentors, as they know all the backstories behind each historical epic or modern romcom. With my other SS sisters Fe Rodriguez and Tina Cuevas, the five of us have varied opinions on the Korean oppas and dramas.

But when it comes to food, we all agreed that Rico’s desserts provided the happy ending to our meal.

Crickette is also so proud, and rightly so, of Rico’s Tiramisuman, with layers of Broas cooked in kapeng barako, suman, and mascarpone cream wrapped in banana leaf and dusted with cocoa powder.

Binignit Panna Cotta is inspired by ginataan with its layers of ube, gabi, langka, saba, and sago topped with bilo-bilo balls and banana chips.

Meanwhile, from the table beside ours—Anton San Diego and his gang of Pops Fernandez, Kit Zobel, Marianne Po, Lizette Cojuangco, and Mela Gozon—we could hear laughter blending with oohs and aahs about the food. This foodie group shared okoy, Tinapa Quiche, fried chicken, and Bringhe Kare-Kare.

But both two tables agreed that Rico’s Pan de Coco and Spanish Bread were not your usual daily bread. And that the drinks—from Dalandan Cucumberto to Frozen Guava Madness to Kamias Shake—were perfect palate cleaners.

Crickette tells the story behind Rico’s: “Nena’s Sanctuary is such a singularly beautiful space. A restaurant, Rico’s, seemed like a necessary part of the experience where one could truly savor soulful moments.” These thoughts germinated in their minds during COVID.

“The various paths that we have taken through the years were not always planned, but happened at the intersection of opportunity and serendipity. For example, Lakehall the events space, was supposed to be rolled out at a later date. However, an opportunity presented itself that led us to developing Lakehall as the pioneering concept for Nena’s Sanctuary. The concept of Joel’s Place (in Rockwell’s Proscenium and Glorietta) also went through several iterations… I believe this emphasizes the significance of staying open-minded and letting serendipity take its course,” Crickette explains.

The initial idea for Rico’s was Mediterranean-inspired, with the design evoking the feel of the Mediterranean region, she clarifies. “However. we were more and more inspired by the creativity of Filipino artisans flourishing here and abroad. We chose to highlight Filipino cuisine which can be enjoyed on a daily basis or for special occasions. The cuisine draws influences from various regions of the Philippines, and global sources such as Europe and Asia. And it happens to be our favorite cuisine as well.”

Rico’s is their way of honoring the rich culinary legacy of the Philippines in a well-designed space that maintains ecological balance. 

Rico’s, by the way, is named after Donnie’s father Rico Tantoco, now the patriarch of the Tantoco family, following the demise of Ambassador Benny Tantoco, with his mother Nena Vargas Tantoco in a very supportive role. Joel’s Place is a tribute to Donnie’s beloved brother who passed years ago.

There should be a Donnie’s Bar or a Crickette’s Beauty and Wellness Center someday, we think. Meanwhile, the Tantocos are praying they can build a chapel at Nena’s Sanctuary.

Donnie and Crickette envision their children becoming the primary movers of Nena’s Sanctuary years from now. That’s when they can just relax and gaze at the sunset, enjoying this patch of paradise that they built.

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For reservation to Rico’s, please contact (0920) 906 7572.