Exploring Escolta
Sometimes, in search of a breather, a change in scenery, or a break from the usual routine, we seek new sights and exotic destinations in other lands near and far.
Often, we take the same old routes and even when we’re passing by the city’s landmarks, they fail to excite. But just like “shopping” for clothes in your own closet, visiting or revisiting some of Manila’s colorful neighborhoods can be that welcome breath of fresh air, and can provide the same kind of inspiration one gets from going abroad, or from flying to another island in our archipelago.
After all, adventure begins with a mindset that no matter how mundane or trivial the journey may seem, one never knows what may be lurking around the corner. When the quest we recently had involved tracking down baptismal records in old Manila churches, I didn’t shrug it off as a tiresome chore, but rather an opportunity to spend time in some of Manila’s oldest quarters. I knew, and correctly so, that serendipity would bring us together with fresh discoveries. Manila, after all, is a city that has constantly evolved over the centuries since it was first founded in 1571 by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi. And it is still a work in progress, constantly reinventing itself, finding ways to adapt to the times while keeping its character as intact as possible.
After quick stops at the Sta Cruz and Quiapo churches, whose records departments are rather efficient (no doubt due to the inordinate number of people looking for baptismal records of their ancestors), we found ourselves with plenty of time to explore the neighborhoods.
From Sta. Cruz church (the Archdiocesan Shrine of the Blessed Sacrament) in Plaza Sta. Cruz, we crossed the street to Escolta whose defining landmark is the white Regina Building on the corner. Many decades ago, way before the advent of the giant air-conditioned malls where much of Manila congregates to shop, be entertained, and escape the heat, there were the elegant districts of Escolta and Rizal Avenue. These were where Manila society would stroll down shaded or arched corridors lined with old department stores such as Berg’s or Aguinaldo’s, dress up to watch movies in theaters designed by Pablo Antonio, or Juan Nakpil before going off for a meal at Selecta and any number of good Chinese restaurants.
Today, Rizal Avenue lies in the dark shadow of the LRT but the length of Escolta has escaped such a blight. Many of its old buildings remain, such as the aforementioned Regina Building which today is still used for offices. Across Regina is the First United Building, originally known as the Perez-Samanillo Building and home to the former Berg’s Department Store. It was designed by Andres Luna de San Pedro, the architect son of painter Juan Luna and was awarded “The Most Beautiful Office Building” by the City Government of Manila in 1928, the year it was built.
If ever such a heritage building has been repurposed with great success and relevance, especially for today’s Gen Z, this is your excellent example. Our friend, photographer and Binondo expert Anson Yu, told us to meet him at the coffee shop at the back. But it took us a while to get to him because when we arrived, we were immediately captivated by a charming labyrinth of coffee shops, artsy stalls, vintage wear, walls painted with authentic Mimaaaaaaaaw and Garapata, even a barber shop. Kitschy jukebox-type music is your soundtrack in this den of unfinished walls and the exposed bones of what used to be the department store. It is now a playground and magnet for the young and not-so-young, drawn to an old Manila they know, remember or imagine that they do.
To peruse the many shops and stalls properly, you need time, but even a quick pass through can yield treasures, such as vintage French designer pieces going for P100, or a stainless steel ring with a heart-shaped pearl for P180. Glorious Diaz is a shop that upcycles dead stock, old table cloth and other mundane house linens into wearable fashion. There are at least two coffee shops, a lemonade stall, accessories, art, houseware, and all sorts of colorful and inexpensive knickknacks you will want to bring home.
The coffee shop at the back is Den Coffee and Contemporary Culture, whose elegantly artsy vibe and sprinkling of artists and fashionistas come for The Berg coffee (espresso with coconut milk), giant cookies with chocolate coins, pretzels and sourdough bread; and light meals. It is also a great place for taking IG worthy photos as is every other nook and cranny of this building.
When you can tear yourself away from the shops and the art, venture past a door to a corridor that gives you a choice to go up via an old elevator or a beautiful staircase with grillwork. The corridor also has old photos and photos detailing the history of the building. The fifth floor houses The First Coworking Community, a working space that is sure to inspire both dreaming and productivity with well-designed seating and work areas, artful lighting and windows with marvelous views.
On the same floor is Baobab Optics, a stylish shop for frames and eye consultations with even more customers that are appropriately stylish as well. Anything with baobabs brings Antoine de Saint Exupery’s The Little Prince to mind, together with a quest for dreaming and adventure. Look up to spy the surprising location for eye examinations!
One end of the fifth floor’s corridor brings you to a plant-filled balcony with a great view of the Santa Cruz Church and plaza, but not before you pass the atelier of young designer Ziv Rei Alexi, and next door to that, the office of the late King of Comedy, Rodolfo “Dolphy” Quizon.
Be sure to finish your visit with the topmost floor where there are surreal spaces perfect to rent for events and edgy fashion shoots.
We ended this Escolta adventure with a late lunch at Uno Seafood Wharf Palace where the dimsum, hot and sour soup, fried rice, roast duck two ways and salted prawns (not to mention buchi, mango sago and almond jelly) did not disappoint. Our tummies satisfied and our arms laden with purchases, we happily headed home. But we happily look forward to returning in a fortnight to see what the records department of the churches we visited has in store for us.
That will surely be another adventure.
