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Small, medium, or large? Papal tailor keeps his options open

Published May 03, 2025 3:51 am

Raniero Mancinelli, tailor to the last three popes, is leaving nothing to chance as he prepares the white vestments that could be worn by the next pontiff, who will be chosen during next week's secret conclave.

The identity of the new pope remains a mystery until white smoke emerges from the Sistine Chapel chimney, meaning Mancinelli is preparing small, medium, and large versions that can be donned at short notice.

"Making these three robes, the day he goes on to the balcony, I think that (one of them) should fit well, pretty well, if not perfectly," he said, referring to the moment when the new pope appears to the world at St. Peter's Basilica.

 Clerical robe tailor Raniero Mancinelli poses for a portrait outside his liturgical vestments shop near the Vatican, in Rome, Italy.

"We just try," he added, joking that even if the robe was too short the pope's feet would not be on view on the balcony.

Wearing his trusty tape measure around his neck, Mancinelli said he had not yet been formally commissioned by the Vatican but was busy preparing for the prestige job, working on his sewing machine as well as hand stitching robes.

He has had his tailor's shop in the Rome neighborhood of Borgo Pio, close to the Vatican, since 1962 and has come to specialize in clerical attire.

"It started as a joke but then I liked it and I have done it since," he said.

 Mancinelli works on a white papal cassock.

"Thank God I got to serve many priests throughout the years, monsignors, bishops, and many cardinals. Then I also served three popes, making the white robes, (for) John Paul II, Benedict, and Francis," he added.

The style of robes worn by Francis reflected his down-to-earth style.

"For Francis obviously, (it had to be) not too expensive, not valuable, a normal textile," he said.

"Benedict preferred more valuable textiles, precious, a little heavier… more beautiful, in short," he added, referring to the German former pope who shocked the world when he resigned in 2013. He died in late 2022.

 A photo of clerical robe tailor Raniero Mancinelli meeting with Pope John Paul II is seen at his liturgical vestments shop.

Mancinelli's services are in particular demand, with cardinals in Rome for the funeral of Pope Francis last weekend and preparing for the conclave that starts on May 7.

He is reluctant to provide new red robes for cardinals at this stage, however, knowing that one of them will end up wearing the papal white.

"Some of them asked for red robes but I refused to do them, not because I am arrogant, but because I told them 'Eminence, will you need this red robe? Maybe you need a different color?'"