The Frenchman cometh—to disarm us again
He’s in Manila once again to disarm us—Augustin de Buffevént—the CEO of the French luxury brand Fauré Le Page, who is Richard Gere X Pierce Brosnan personified.
Fauré Le Page, founded in 1717 by a gunsmith, is deeply etched in French history and literature (notably, in the works of novelist Balzac). When it was acquired in modern times by De Buffevént, he combined history with craftsmanship by manufacturing luxury bags inspired by containers of weapons that were made for hunters and soldiers.
The new weapons in FLP’s arsenal, which De Buffevént now introduces in Manila, are all-leather bags called Ladies First.
“Femininity meets tenacity in this collection inspired by the earliest armors in history. It has exquisite embroidery depicting the scales in an armor,” he explains, “with unparalleled craftsmanship in calfskin.” It comes in three colors—Powder Black, Sand and Forest Green.
We sat down with De Buffevént at the Sala in Greenbelt where SSI president Anton Huang led the launch of the new leather collection.
Excerpts:
PHILIPPINE STAR: During your visit to Manila last year, we talked about arms and war. Today, the Israel-Palestine conflict is still ongoing, and so is the Ukraine-Russia war. Meanwhile, Fauré Le Page is still armed… for seduction. It was originally a French firearms maker which later became Faure Le Page, a producer of holsters and gun bags. As a renowned bag maker, what are you armed for? What battles are you fighting now in the world of luxe retail?
Augustin de Buffevént: I was asked recently to explain what our motto, “Armed for Seduction,” meant. It clearly is the “art of encounter” because there is seduction that you see, when you start discovering someone else. And you start to dialogue because there’s seduction… then you’re frightened. And there’s a high risk to start a battle. I think it’s a process of civilization.
Seduction means a dialogue between two people. So I think it’s time to throw our phones into the ocean and start communicating. Cellphones create a barrier between human beings. We need to talk to each other much more.
I was in Saigon last month, and I saw a lot of fake Fauré Le Page bags. Do you want to go up in arms against the manufacturers of these fakes?
Coco Chanel once said it was “a tribute from the street.” As far as I’m concerned, all the fake bags that I’ve seen look really like fake bags. Our creative process is long. You should come to our workshop to do some screen printing, and you will see how hard it is. So basically, good luck to the makers of fake bags.
But actually, imitation is the best form of flattery; as you said, a tribute from the streets.
At least, if they start copying and then making their own style, I will be very happy. It’s like, you know, in the 19th century, painters used to go to the Louvre, did some copies, and then developed their own style. Well, I don’t compare myself to the Louvre.
Well, it means that your brand is well coveted. It’s an object of desire. So you should be worried when your bags are no longer faked.
It’s amazingly expensive to make these bags. The leather is very expensive. But we also make sure that we don’t have crazy prices. To me, it’s important to talk about fair prices.
Now, let’s talk about the real FLP. What’s your latest line that you have brought to Manila?
It’s called the Ladies First, which is both a tribute to French gallantry, a form of education and behaving in a civilized way. And also, it’s a call for women empowerment: Ladies First.
What’s the inspiration for this?
It’s embroidered in a couture way. You get many details. So it’s really inspired by the giberne. You know, the 18th-century cartridge box. In the old movies, the soldiers were carrying these long bags in which they had all the material to make their own cartridge.
They are still carrying bags. And so it’s really quite a simple shape which we know we have to work with in our own code. So first, the embroidery. It took us five years to translate the scale on leather, and the touch also is amazing.
What is that supposed to be?
A scale. It’s like an armor. Then you will find the barrel, the reference to the bullets. We have the shoulder pad, which is like a jewel on your shoulder.
So I see that there are three variations?
Yes, and more to come. It’s a lot of fun, because now that we have developed this technique, you can play with colors. There is a green one, which is coming in September.
How has the Philippine market been so far?
Really interesting. First of all, I’m amazed by the level of knowledge of luxury, but I don’t like the word luxury, so I shouldn’t say luxury but craftsmanship. People are really well aware of crafts, and it’s a vibrant and very dynamic market. I wish I could live here, really.
Which places have you seen outside of Manila?
None, I’ve only stayed in Manila. But I go a lot to a little island in the Mediterranean Sea, which is called Menorca. And it’s right next to Majorca. People from Menorca used to go all over the world because the island was quite poor, and they came back with some seeds. So now, you have some tropical trees on this island of the Mediterranean.
Fighting words for women who love luxury and well-crafted items? Create your own style. What is more seductive is when you create your own style!
So outside France, this is where you want your other home to be?
Yeah, it’s already almost my home. I try to go once a month, at least three days. One hour and a half from Spain. When I go to this island, I leave all my issues, all my troubles on the shore.
Aside from luxe retail, what do you enjoy doing?
I garden a lot. I plant trees.
Do you have a garden on that island? What do you plant?
Olive trees. As you know it’s quite rocky, you need to have a very resistant tree, a plant that likes to suffer.
Hmm, olives. Would you ever think of yourself as a food manufacturer?
No, as a peasant. You know where the word humidity comes from? It comes from humus. Humus, the soil.
I think we should be more on the soil. I want to plant because I love trees. I think this is absolutely magic.
That’s why, in your Greenbelt 5 store, there is a huge tree?
But it’s a symbol of a family. Also, we always say a family tree. And I think, in order to create a Fauré Le Page, you have to know your roots. It’s finding the right balance between your heritage and modernity. If you look too much on the past, open a museum; if you look too much at the future, you lose your roots. So just find the right balance.
And you’re proud of the history of Fauré Le Page, of course.
Yes, I think it’s very amusing. It was founded [at] the beginning of the 18th century. In 2026, we will open a store where we will display some of the archives.
Where?
Secret. You will have to come to Paris.
Fauré Le Page is one of the most travel-friendly bags. You can put it anywhere, and it’s light. It doesn’t get stained or crumpled.
It’s important to make long-lasting items. We are working a lot on the quality, and we constantly improve. Part of my team’s work is to torture our bags. To test the quality. And there’s a laboratory in the South of France where our bags go through absolutely horrible tests.
What’s the oldest bag that you have in your possession from the 18th century?
Our pieces date back to the 18th and the 19th centuries. Some pieces, we will display them. They are in our offices. They are hidden for the moment.
Can Fauré Le Page customers bring their bag back to the stores for repairs?
Yes, it can be done. But it depends. If it’s burned, then there’s nothing we can do about it. But you know, I love it when things have been worn. I think there is a patina, which makes it unique.
Part of the bag’s history is about the people who have used FLP.
No, I think you, the user, are part of the bag’s history. Have your own style. You don’t need to copy anyone. Have your own style, I think, be yourself.
Like Marie Antoinette?
Be yourself.
Or Mrs. Macron?
Be yourself.
Princess Di?
Be yourself.
I see; you don’t like to namedrop. How about the men? How much of your market is male?
It’s still a small portion, like 30 percent but it will be growing. More and more men are using bags, aside from clutches. Originally, men were carrying handbags, not women. The soldiers and hunters were carrying handbags. Women started to carry their own bags during World War I, because they had to go to the factory to replace men. So they started to wear men’s clothes and carry bags. Now, both men and women carry bags.
What are your fighting words for women who like well-crafted items?
Create your own style. What is most seductive is when you create your own style!
And bags are also a form of investment, right? You can tell if it’s an old, vintage bag.
I think this is so chic. Also, I like it when you match a vintage bag with modern pieces. I go a lot to auction houses. So basically, I love things from the past that you can match with contemporary outfits. It works very well.
We were discussing yesterday with Mario (Katigbak). He’s in love with the Drouot, it’s anauction house in Paris, where you have many antiques. And he buys his silverware from the old world. And I buy my silverware there, too. There’s nothing more chic for me than having, you know, an old thing.
Aside from bags, are you venturing into new products?
We will.
Shoes?
No, not yet. It’s too early. But if we do, it will be long-lasting items, also with the same philosophy, but it’s too early. But we have many in the bank.
Did you go to Paris recently? And you didn’t even come to see me? I have a nice studio now where I gather all my creative teams. Very nice place.
Where is your factory?
We have different factories. We have two in Spain, one in ancient Rome. And France. We have one factory dedicated to printing on canvas. And then another to do the embroidery. And then we work with different workshops, small workshops, most of the time, family-owned.
How long does it take to make one bag?
It really depends. The prototyping can be very quick or very long. This (new) one took us five years because the embroidery process was a nightmare.
One thing I also like about FLP is that you don’t have screaming logos.
This is luxury. Don’t be loud. You know what? When you’re educated, you don’t need to wear so many logos.
You do a lot of travel to open new stores?
But I need to do it quickly so I can go to museums. I went to Florence (Firenze) again one month ago, and it was so marvelous.
Florence is nice.
And also, I think it’s very good, you know, for inspiration and humility.
Why humility?
Because when you see so much talent which is gathered there. There’s so much genius in that city. It’s absolutely impressive.
When I think of Florence, I think of Sta. Maria Nouvella.
Even the chapel, where it’s located.
You love collecting antiques. Is that your biggest luxury for yourself?
It’s one of my biggest luxuries. To me, it’s totally normal to match something modern with something antique. I’m still in love with the Louis the 16th or the 15th-style furniture. I hate when it’s only one style of furniture. I like when there is this mixing. And as for ceramics, I think the old ceramics are amazingly interesting, and the contemporary ceramics are absolutely fantastic. Really mixing. It’s always very inspiring.
Is there any particular person who inspires you?
I love Sophie Calle, she’s very inspiring, and she made the full exhibition about Drouot. Sophie is a photographer, poet. And she organized the auction of her life as if she was dying. And so everything was filmed, and all objects were sold. And she’s, to me, extremely inspiring, because she makes, you know, many techniques, there is a lot of humor. In ballet, I love Bianca Li, a Spanish dancer and actress married to a Korean. She’s the head of the Theater de la Villette. She’s creating this mix of culture, and there’s an energy that is absolutely fantastic. And recently, I’ve seen in ballet what she did, it’s an opera from Purcell, and it was a shock. She has mixed Baroque music with contemporary ballet, and it was absolutely fantastic.
What do you see yourself doing five years from now?
Still pursuing the development of Fauré Le Page and exploring new ways of expressing the identity of the brand. And I will go on planting trees. And making some olive oil.
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Fauré Le Page, located in Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, is exclusively distributed in the Philippines by Stores Specialists Inc.
